The paper backing on the fabric must be removed carefully to avoid distortion. Since the entire piece, image plus margins, is 42" wide, I asked a friend to help me remove the backing. The best way to do this is to peel the fabric back all the way across the edge (about 2"), and then hold that edge down, while the other person pulls on the paper and removes it. Since you are not pulling on the fabric per se, there is little or no distortion.
I then backed the cotton sateen with a fusible featherweight Pellon stabilizer, shown in the photo above. I purchased a queen sized wool batting -- read: wrinkly when unpackaged, but a dream to quilt. After I cut the appropriate size (including extra), I put it in the dryer on air fluff to try to get out the wrinkles. Nothing. I added a slightly moistened hand towel, and voila, wrinkles begone! This does shrink the wool batting, so be sure to allow for that when calculating its size.
I spray-basted the digital image-top to the batting - always spray the batting, not the fabric. As I do not want the stitches to show on the backing, I will attach that later. Now I am using all those luscious threads pictured with Sanjagirl in my February 1 post and am spending delightful hours in the act of stitching.
2 comments:
Thanks for explanation of your process for this project. It is stunning!
I have done a small project in which I have only stitched through the top and batting. I put a backing on it by placing a piece of fabric over the front, sewing around the edges, then cutting a slit in the backing and turning it. It looked awful so I took the backing off. I have not yet figured out how to finish this. I'm wondering how you are planning to put a backing on your project, since you said you are only quilting through the top and batting too.
I will fuse the backing to the batting, and then treat it like an old time "tied" quilt, tying all the layers together at the block's joints. Then I will put a facing on -- instead of a binding.
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